STOP THE SQUAT From the moment the pickup tines touch the windrow, Roll-Belt balers pick up all of your valuable crop.HIGHER DENSITY MORE CAPACITY REDUCED STORAGE LOSSES The industrys densest bales combined with EdgeWrap net wrapping yields weather-resistant bales that reduce storage losses.It is a 38 bolt set horizontally and goes through a flat piece of metal shaped like a tear drop.
They have some pictures with broken bail string and what to do under the knotter cover but Im not making any progress doing whats suggested on that sticker. When this baler was bought brand new a couple years ago the knotter would not work correctly and a person from the business that sold it to my dad came out and he and another guy fixed it. The replaced the knife and that didnt seam to work, so they called some other guy who came out and bent the knife a little and the baler has worked OK since then. I dont know if thats any significance to the problem we are having now with it. It seems like it ties good a lot of the time, for some reason it has started cutting the twine next to the knot. The distance is not always the same, sometimes its 2 inches sometimes its 12 inch. Sometimes it stays in the knotter after the incorrect cut and will get tied to the next bail. I attempted to adjust the pincer thing inside the knotter about half a turn but that made no difference so I just moved it back to original spot. Before I start adjusting the hell out of this thing and start taking it apart does anybody have any Idea what could cause this problem On the sticker underneath the cover it said to check for gouges on the throat of the knife if the twine is cutting about 2 inches down, I was unsure what the throat was, I am assuming under the head with the razor in it, I went ahead and checked the entire thing and didnt feel any sharp edges. I have tried cheap thin twine, regular poly twine, and this thick pink twine. I dont remember if that tying to the bail behind the broken one started before or after I started adjusting that pincer tension. There is a decent chance you have merely a tiny burr or even just a place on your knife arm where the paint has worn off (especially if it had a new arm installed before, the paint on the replacement parts is different from the baler). Find the spot on the arm that had the paint off and file or emery it smooth(er). ![]() Ill smooth that sucker down tomorrow and let you know what happens. I figured the burr was from where that old fella that fixed it had bent it prying on it. Here is a picture of the knife on the baler with a green dot with an arrow pointing where the burr is. I dont know if Ill be able to sleep now, I may have to drive out there in my underwear and sand it down. I had 70-80 percent of my first 2 K bales cut right behind the knot. Turns out, some mangagement genius had chad suppliers for the knotted knife and it was made wrong. Once they figured it out we were fine-much field adjustment with the parts on the knotted knife with a hammer Good luck. New Holland 5060 Baler Specifications How To Check AndI post the link because of the discussion of how to check and adjust the knife arm. You adjusted the billhook tension spring which is not what I am referring to. There is only one other bolt on the knotter assy which you can adjust.
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